Rural Homestay

Blog entry: Rural Homestay

Three weeks ago, which feels simultaneously like yesterday and years ago, the CGE group and I departed for Outapi, a city in the northern region of Ombalantu. Here we would spend the next six days with families. The long drive up gave us all a chance to reflect on our time here, get ready for our last and most challenging homestay and brush up on the Oshivambo we had learned.

Upon our arrival I was nervous to meet my parents in the north. After the parents finished their meeting I met Secilia Hongo, my mother. She is a short but powerful woman. On our walk home I met Irjya, my sister. She is twenty-three and has a baby named Eddie. She carried my suitcase on her head while Meme Secilia carried a big box of food. Along our way they found a caterpillar and asked if I wanted to eat it! I was pretty overwhelmed by it, and didn’t but there’s more to come on that later!

We passed a gate that led to their farm. In the middle of their crops was a wall made of large branches which makes up their home. Kuku, grandma, Ulla Kamati was singing and clapping when I arrived. We sat down outside her house made of tin and I met everyone else! Ronny, or Nongola, is nine years old, Lusa, is three, Sam is one and a half and then little Eddie is only seven months old. They were all very excited to have me come, as was I, though maybe I was a bit more nervous too. I also drank a traditional drink which was very strong, milky looking but tasting similar to wine. Then I got settled in and Meme Secilia, all women in Ovambo culture are called Meme and men Tate, had to go back to her Coka shop and would return later. Irjya and Kuku cooked oshithima, which is traditional food and a lot like porridge, and a spinach dish that you dip the porridge into. We ate under the stars sitting on the sandy ground. We ate by starlight and moonlight as the house has no electricity, which is so relaxing and beautiful.

The house is a compilation of things. There are thirteen to fifteen huts, it’s difficult to count since the place winds around a bit, Kuku stays in a tin house and there is one cement house with two rooms. One is Meme Secilia’s and the other is where I stayed. The latrine is out in the field, by where the pigs live. There are two cute little pigs! Then there are many chickens, dogs and they also own goats. The place everyone gathers at is the kitchen area.

The next morning, Tuesday March 10, the other CGE students and I were whisked off to listen to speakers. We met the governor Sackey Kayone, who only met with us briefly. Then we visited Reverend Kashime who talked to us about issues of the church in Northern Namibia. He spoke about how the church helped the liberation struggle for independence. One contemporary issue the church has, which I was unaware of, is the increase in suicide in Namibia.

After that we went back to our families. The walk back to my home is thirty to forty-five minutes away from the road but it is a peaceful walk. There are many cows, goats and donkeys around. It’s very green in the north, as well. That night we ate rice and macaroni under the stars again. Meme Secilia brought fish home.

The next morning a bunch of school children walked with Ronny and I to the road, and the children continued to school. We visited Ongulumbashe where the liberation struggle had its first armed conflict. We listened to a member of SWAPO who had been a fighter when the first attack from South Africa began.

After that we visited Uukwaluudhi which is the King Shikongo Taapopi’s home. We went through the traditional home which had many levels where guests would meet headsman before the king. Finally we met the king who welcomed us. He told us about a community center that they were making that would help the elderly and orphans and vulnerable children as well as house community events such as weddings and parties. Then young men and women dressed in traditional clothes did two wonderful and high energy dances for us which I loved! They moved their feet to a very fast drum beat which impressed me so much.

That night with my family, before dinner Ronny, Lusa, Sam and I drew in the sand. I helped Ronny with his English alphabet. Then I taught them songs like “Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes”, “Old McDonald Had a Farm” and other similar songs. We also danced the chicken dance and ran around saying “ I am running!” or jumping or shaking. It was so much fun. Ronny already knew “Bingo”. The kids loved “Head, Shoulders,” and “Old McDonald” the most. Ronny’s favorite animal to sound out is the donkey!

The next morning, Thursday, March 11, Meme Secilia loaned me a traditional outfit to wear. I was so excited! It consisted of a bright pink, red and black loose shirt and skirt, with a bandana to match! It was bright and colorful I loved it! I wore that when we went to Etunda Irrigation which is a government run project that irrigates crops for farmers. They also subsidize loans given to the farmers for fertilizer, labor, machinery and more. They produce bananas, corn, sorghum, spinach and cabbage there. It was very interesting. Then we visited the Bao bao tree which is famous in that region. The tree was huge and inside was a small church. In the past the tree was used for all kinds of things including shelter from violence during colonialism and South African rule, a meeting place, and a small church. It was very beautiful. An icon of Namibia, Africa and our stay.

I met Meme Secilia’s other son Joel, who goes to school in Ongulumbashe. He is a very well-educated thirteen year old who is very nice. We talked about education and Ovambo culture. He taught me a lot. He has been promised that if he passes grade 12 his education at a college in Germany will be paid for. I hope he keeps studying and working hard. Joel has a lot of potential.

Then Meme Secilia and I went to the grocery store which was a bit awkward because so many people were very excited to see me. It was overwhelming how many people greeted me and took pictures of me on their phones. But I survived and made it back home. For dinner we had beans. There was more but I couldn’t eat it because I got sick with a stomach bug. I felt so bad to not be able to eat more because it made Meme Secilia and Irjya so happy when I ate a lot.

Friday morning we went to Oshikango, a border town with Angola. This really sparked my interest. It was so strange, I felt like we had left Namibia. At the border there are dozens of Angolans trying to get into Namibia in order to buy goods and sell them in Angola for a much higher price because Angola uses the U.S. dollar. There was so much hustle bustle which is so different from the calm little Outapi we know, or most places in Namibia for that matter. Oshikango faces many issues due to globalization such as crime, prostitution, cocaine trafficking from Brazil to Angola to Namibia, the growing population of Portuguese speakers to name a few.

Then we went to Ponhofi Secondary School which is a public school, to talk with the students there. Unfortunately my stomach bug did not allow me to experience much of Ponhofi other than the delicious lunch we had there, which I also couldn’t eat much of.

That night at home as I started to feel better I ate more again. I ate fried caterpillars! They are so delicious, they remind me of popcorn. We also had chicken.

Saturday morning with my family, we worked in the field making the nut plants strong by putting dirt up around them and on top of them. Then we got ready for the farewell party. They strapped Sam to my back and we were off. Lusa and I walked hand in hand in our matching traditional outfits to the party. There we got ready for the party by peeling carrots with forks, which is not so easy. Then the festivities got underway. There were many heart warming presentations. One of the fathers talked about our time here, then a student from the CGE group did. Also many of the students sang songs with their families or danced which was so great! Then we ate delicious food!

We made it home after a long day and had a final meal under the stars together. We were all very sad that it was my last night. In the morning we took a bunch of pictures which I promised to send to them. Irjya and Eddie walked me to the road. It was so sad to say goodbye and when we passed my mom’s Coka shop I could hardly bear leaving. Despite the sadness of saying goodbye I was excited and ready for what new things our trip to the north had to offer.

Are you ready for this??

So this post serves a couple of different functions. First off it branches the amazing four days in Swakopmund with the rest of my life in Windhoek and it details how I won’t be around much in the month of March as we have quite a full schedule. I figure if I put all this in writing before my post I can live up to those expectations.

So when we got back from Swakopmund everyone made a mad dash for the washing machine (we only have one). Let me tell you Swakop is wet and salty and you feel it!

Then we had a regular week in Windhoek. I went to classes and my internship. In internship class we spoke to a speaker from World Teach about the program and about resume writing. In religion class we spoke to Reverend Thys of the Dutch Reform Church. This was a very interesting session in religion class as he talked about the history of the DRC in Namibia and contemporary issues. In history class we had two speakers. One we went to UNAM for and he spoke to us about apartheid history. This was really interesting because he gave the history from an Afrikaner perspective which we often do not receive in class. Then we also had a speaker talk to us about racism in the U.S. In development class we went to USAID and heard about what they are doing in Namibia and globally.

Friday we ate s’mores and got excited for the North!

Saturday night we went out to see Alice in Wonderland which was very cute and creative. Then we went to Primi, a bar and Chez Ntemba a club, where we danced the night away. I was so glad to go out with my new friend from work, Olga! She is a great girl and a UNAM student.

She invited me to UNAM yesterday to help judge the preliminary round of Miss UNAM first year! It was SO fun. We got to see first year UNAM students in bikinis and cocktail dresses and ask them questions about themselves. It was SO much fun. I also got a chance to get more familiar with UNAM which was nice. Olga is an intern at Friendly Haven too. She is studying to become a social worker and is an awesome girl!

So that’s my life in Windhoek, as it is currently.

Today I am preparing for the north as we leave tomorrow, very early. In the north we will be on an insane adventure! We start off making our way to our rural homestay families. My family is one of 7 people. Three girls and three boys, but two of the girls are older. I am so excited for the homestay! I can’t wait to meet them. I know that it presents itself with some challenges but I hope I am prepared for them, or at least as much I can be. For example, six days of no showers or bathing, no toilets and maybe no running water or electricity. I can handle it though. During the day at our homestays we are going to go to various speakers around the area. Then after six days we leave for Opuwo, another village in the north, and spend sometime there. Finally we make our way to Etosha National Park which is going to be amazing! We are going to get to see animals there. I am SO excited!

After all that adventure in the North we drive back south to Windhoek and there is where we start our spring break! Jenna and I and two of her co-workers are going to Skeleton Coast Park which will be amazing! We will spend two days there and then go to Swakopmund for the rest of the week. I’ll get back to Windhoek on Thursday, March 25th or Friday, March 26th! Then there is only one more month before my sister Britt comes to visit me!

Anyway that will explain why there will be no more posts for about three weeks, but I will have so much to report on when I get back! Wish me luck!

P.S. Check out Skeleton Coast at http://www.namibian.org/travel/namibia/skeleton.htm !

Some of the best four days of my life!

Some of the best four days of my life!!

We left for Swakopmund, mid week! We were all pretty psyched about the trip. For me, it was at the very least a welcome escape from the house which I tire from. I love to travel and I could hardly wait to go! We loaded up the van last Wednesday and headed out for Swakop!

The drive was three to four hours! When we got there we split up into groups to live in which of the guest houses for the next three days. Then we were off to the beach which was beautiful. Our first glance at the Atlantic from Namibia was at night. The waves roared! They were very intense! It was so beautiful, it brought a contemplative mood over me.

Then we went to the Lighthouse for dinner. It was so delicious and everyone had been starving so we ate quite a bit.

The next day was full of speakers in Swakopmund. We went to the Rossing Mine which mines uranium. It was really interesting and beautiful. It also had its own precautions and safety measures, like wearing a seat belt, which is not common practice in most of Namibia.

In the afternoon we went grocery shopping. Then Jenna and I stayed in, made our own dinner and watched Shakespeare in Love. Then it was off to the beach again. The beach is so beautiful at night but at that point I was very cold and salty from the air and the waves and was looking forward to a chance to see the beach in the day.

The next day we went to Walvis Bay (often pronounced wall-fish bay here). We saw a lot of interesting things like Namport, a trading port and the Export Processing Zone which allows foreign companies to process Namibian resources here and then export them all over the world. Then we drove back to Swakopmund. Kate and I had dinner at Spurs, which sort of reminds me of TGIF except with a Native American theme which is interesting!

Saturday was our free day and a group of us went sea kayaking. This was y far my favorite activity in Swakopmund and my favorite day on this trip, hands down!! We drove out from Swakopmund with Leon and Craig, our guides, to Walvis Bay. We got to see seal colonies! They were mostly mamas and babies! They were so loud they barked and made a sound like a goat!

Then we got on the water. Lauren, my partner in the kayak, and I went out with the group. We first went to deep water to try to find dolphins which we didn’t end up seeing. Then we came further in to play with the seals. Seals are some of the best animals ever!! Their bodies jumping around in the water shimmer in the sun and their playful attitude is made apparent when they peek their heads out of the water to check you out. It was so amazing. The faster Lauren and I went the faster they would swim along side us! It was so amazing! They would jump right next to our kayak. Also one bit Lauren’s paddle! It was SO amazing! The air was clear and salty and the water splashed me which helped keep me cool! It was the best tourist experience I have had here in Namibia so far!

Unfortunately we had to come back in eventually. We had sandwiches and explored a little. Some people found a dead baby seal. Many people found seal bones. It was so beautiful.

The ride back we were all exhausted! Then, back in Swakopmund, we finally got to go to the beach during the day! It was marvelous! We also did yoga on the beach taught by our very own development teacher, Linda Raven. It was so fun but my body was exhausted. Also the ocean is very rough and you have to be a very strong swimmer to make it! It roughed me up a bit!

As amazing as this day was, the night was just as fun. My roomies and I went to Napolitana, an Italian restaurant for dinner. Then Morgan, Holland and I went out to Rafter Action Pub, which was very fun. Then we went dancing! It was so fun, even when we got lost on our way back home!

And so concludes my adventures in Swakopmund… or does it? I am going to spend from March 22nd to 26th in Swakopmund for spring break!

The Geseibs

As soon as we got settled CGE scooped us up and took us outside of our comfort zones again! This time they were taking us all over Windhoek for our Urban Homestays. They lasted 10 days in which we live with a family. Most of us were placed in homes in Katutura or Khomasdal. My family is Trudy and Sam Geseib and their four week old baby Tandago. I was so excited to learn about my family!

Then the final day came where we left our Windhoek west home or a new one. Sam came to pick me up at the house. I liked him immediately but was still a little shy. We drove back to their home in Katutura. There I met many family members along with Trudy, little Tandago and Petrine their niece. I later met Mercelline their other niece and Obas, their nephew. The three young people, all my age, are staying with Sam and Trudy to go to school at UNAM, University of Namibia, and a new banking school that just opened.

It was very different for me to go from the CGE house to a structured family again. I helped cook and wash dishes almost everyday. This reminded me of home. It was so nice to have a family feel again. Also Sam and I hit it off and talked about a lot of issues concerning the world and Namibia. Sam is my go-to-guy! Whenever I have questions from class, he’s who I go to for a new perspective, a lot like my dad at home.

The first weekend I was there on Sunday we went to their farm outside of the city. It was so incredibly beautiful there! They are growing fruits and veggies and have cattle, goats, pigs and chickens! It was so nice to see the piggies! We had lunch there and just sat and marveled at nature for a long time. It was so peaceful and serene. It was also really interesting to talk to Sam about how they managed to obtain the land and keep up the farm. It’s a very complicated process to run the farm as they do, especially because they both live and work in Windhoek. Right now they have finished drilling a hole for water and all they have left to do is build a pump for the well and they will have their own source of water there. Currently they use their neighbor’s pump and pay him for it. To show you how dynamic and strong Trudy is, two weeks after Tandago was born she was on the phone getting people to come out and start drilling the well!

On our way back Sam and I talked at length about issues such as unemployment, government, HIV/AIDS and history on the drive back. Also we almost hit a warthog and her babies! They are the equivalent to our deer on the road. I was excited because I had never seen them wild before! The babies were so cute!

Then Sam left for Sweden for work which was a bummer. The week was good, I took classes and had some afternoons in the CGE house. The next weekend Petrine, Mercelline, Obas, Desmond (another cousin) and I all went to the movies at Maerwa Mall. The boys saw Twilight, which I think is pretty funny, and we saw Valentine’s Day. After that we hung out for a bit there. Then we went to the pool but we were quickly rained out.

On my last day of my homestay Mercelline and Petrine braided my hair! It was fun! It actually didn’t even hurt until hours later. My homestay was so wonderful and I love the Geseibs so much. They are my family in Namibia and that comforts me greatly.

Also a week later I turned twenty one! Trudy and Sam held a braai for my birthday. It was the highlight of my week. They made it so special for me. All of our family was there and some of my CGE friends came! We had such a wonderful time. The food was brilliant, as usual (thanks Obas, master grillers!). Some people made toasts to me and the one that touched me the most was the one from my dad Sam. He talked about how my parents in the U.S. must envy Trudy and him for being allowed this time with me. He talked about the time I had spent at the house and how we all learned so much from each other. Finally he talked about how I was a woman in the world and a part of their family. I love Trudy and Sam and all of their family so much. When I think about my life in Namibia they are a huge part of it and they probably mean the most to me out of everyone I know here. I know that I always have a place, a home and a family here.

Thank you Trudy and Sam for everything you have showed me and given me. I love you guys.

Windhoek: The Beginning

When I first stepped off of the plane in Windhoek I was stunned by heat and the intensity of the sun. Johannesburg had been a lot rainier, colder and cloudier than Namibia. Namibia was refreshing and warm and so green. After we finally got through the long customs line with our student visas in hand we drove to town. This drive amazed me as there was so much foliage and the mountains were so very beautiful! As we got closer to civilization, Kristin, the CGE intern, started telling me about all the fun places to go in Windhoek!

            Then we finally arrived at our home in Windhoek West, a neighborhood. It was so exciting to finally get to Windhoek and what we would call home for the next three months! I quickly moved in and got settled!

            In the coming days we did a myriad of things, such as start class and our internship. We also did team building in a park called Elisenheim, which is German for Elise’s home. This was a very fun day. We were assigned to make road maps of our lives and present them to everyone so we could all get to know each other better. This was an intense day. For many, sharing was difficult and I must admit that it was hard for me to hear people in our group struggle. It also brought up issues in my life which I had not originally thought of presenting. After the sessions a group of us climbed a big mountain. It was so difficult to do, especially when we ran out of path but it was also probably one of the most incredible things I have done on this journey. Climbing that mountain told me “Sam, you made it. It was a long and hard journey to get to this point in your life, but you did it! You made it!” Climbing that mountain is something that I will keep with me forever.

            We settled into our home and our way of life with classes and hanging out by the swimming pool on free afternoons. I am taking an internship at Friendly Haven, a shelter for women and children who have been domestically abused, the internship class, a religion class that focuses on Christianity in Namibia and Southern Africa, a history class which compares the U.S. and Southern Africa and finally a development class. These classes and my internship have presented various challenges to me so far in this trip and I have learned a lot through them. Another way in which these classes have really deepened my understanding of Southern Africa, the U.S. and the world is that we go to listen to speakers everyday. We are very fortunate in that we get to go listen to speakers from the National Planning Committee and other important officials such as, representatives of USAID and World Teach to name a few. We also have listened to a traditional healer and two church representatives which is probably the highlights for me as I am very interested in the role of religion in Namibia.

 

 The weather here is almost always sunny and warm, though it is the rainy season so occasionally it rains. Namibia is a dry country so I don’t think they plan on the rain a lot. For me this was quite evident as you could watch the sheets of water roll down the streets with no gutters to go to. It was a beautiful sight.

 

Oh by the way, the malls here are almost just as big as the ones in Johannesburg and you can smoke in them, bank in them and buy your groceries in them!

Pretoria!

After our home stay in Soweto we left for Pretoria. We drove through Alexandria and Sandton. Alexandria, is a black township, facing a lot of struggle. The poverty was immense and overwhelming. Just minutes away was Sandton, an upper class and historically white suburb, which was very nice. The disparity between poverty and wealth is astounding and I have only seen as clearly in Quito, Ecuador. 

Then we continued our drive to Pretoria. At Pretoria we settled in and spent the afternoon relaxing. We had a braai for dinner, which I unfortunately could not enjoy because I was still recovering from being sick. 

The next morning we went to the Voortrekker Monument. It was a massive building! The view of Pretoria from the monument was amazing. It was also full of information about how the Dutch immigrated to the interior to escape the British power in the cape. It was very informative. It was also sad to see how the relations between the Dutch and the Africans deteriorated. An interesting fact about the monument is that it is visible from Parliament because it served as a reminder for Afrikaaners when they governed to remember the sacrifices of their ancestors. 

Then we visited the U.S. embassy and after lengthy security measures managed to get through and speak to an international diplomat. He was from the U.S. and spoke to us about the role of the U.S. and China in South Africa. It was very interesting. America still has a wide influence culturally and economically despite the  growing influence of communism and China in South Africa.

Then we visited the Parliament and the Parliament Gardens which were very beautiful! It was also very hot! But it was well worth seeing in all its beauty and green earth.

Then we relaxed that night. The next morning we left bright and early for Johannesburg. In Johannesburg we got an a flight to Namibia. Probably one of the most exciting flights of my life!

Soweto Home Stay

So I'm back for another marvelous post! 

I'm picking up where I left off in Johannesburg, where we were getting dropped off in Soweto for our weekend home stays! Nathalie and I were dropped off in Soweto, short for South West Township. We met Elsie Mazazana, our home stay mother. She met us with open arms and a warm heart. She also had her grandson with her. He is a cute little two year old!

We entered her home and met Nkunkla her sixteen year old. She was very nice. Later Ndooro, Elsie's eldest daughter, 25, came home from work. We spent the night talking to them about many things including music, pop culture, school and people and places in the U.S. and Johannesburg. For dinner we had hot dogs with butter in our buns! It was yummy!

The next day, Saturday, we started relatively late. For breakfast, we had fat cake which is like an African donut. They are very yummy! We put bologna inside and then atchar. Atchar is a spicy spread made of vegetables. Then the five of us piled into the car and went to visit Elsie's mother and brothers, a few blocks away. Elsie's mom was quite nice. Elsie's sister Sybil also came to visit and we met up with Morgan and Lauren, two other girls in the CGE program, at the house.

After visiting the family we went to Nelson Mandela's house in Soweto. It was very informative and enlightened me a lot on Winnie Mandela's life while Nelson Mandela was imprisoned on Robin's Island. The house was originally made for miners. It consisted of a bedroom, sitting room, dining room, kitchen, bathroom and pantry. The South African police used to shoot at the house and petrol bomb it to kill Winnie and her children. Eventually she had a wall built between the kitchen and dining room in order to protect her children who slept in the kitchen while she slept in the pantry with a rifle. Eventually Winnie was arrested and later released. Then when Nelson was released the house was restored to it's historic way before Winnie had changed parts of it. Nelson Mandela lived there but only for a little while due to his popularity and high profile. He moved to a more private place.

After that we ran some errands for dinner. Then while Elsie made dinner Nkunkla, Ndooro, Nathalie and I watched 2012. Then we had dinner which was stump and boerwars rolls. Stump is sort of like mashed corn and the boerwars are sausage. It was VERY yummy!

After that we watched a movie based on a true story about a man in South Africa from Mozambique who fought against apartheid, called To Catch a Fire. It was a very intense movie. After that Elsie got to talking to us about a wide range of issues in South Africa. She spoke about what it was like to grow up during the fall of the apartheid. She was in her early teens during the nd of apartheid. Elsie said it was considered cool to fight against apartheid. She said had she been older and known more about apartheid she would have gone into exile and trained to fight against the apartheid like many others did in the Spear of Nations, the militant leg of the ANC. She also spoke about the terrible conditions that many immigrants in South Africa live in. She spoke of the racism that is still a part of South African society. Elsie said that racism is quite evident at work and many who use Afrikaans are viewed as snubbing others by refusing to speak in English. It's also important to understand how Afrikaans is viewed as the language of the oppressors in South Africa. Elsie also talked to us about her family, it's structure and much more. She talked to us about the complex nature of  marriage and engagement. Her son is engaged and working to pay the lobola, which is a bride price. It is also very complicated if a child is born out of wedlock. It was exciting to talk to Elsie about such serious issues!! I feel I learned a lot about South Africa, and in a more personal and tangible way than through all of the speakers we had heard before that. 

The next morning, Sunday, we prepared for church. Sadly, both Nathalie and I both got sick and had to leave church early. We returned to the house and were sick all day. It was pretty bad. around 4:30 p.m. we emerged from our room and hung out with the family. After some time the five of us left for a shebeen in Diepkloof. This shebeen is owned by Elsie's husband. A shebeen is like a tavern and a bar. It was very fun. We danced to the music and played pool. We enjoyed ourselves a lot! 

Then we went home and went to sleep. The next morning we said goodbye to Nkunkla and Ndooro before they left for school. Then we said goodbye to Elsie! It was so sad to leave her. She took great care of us and I love them all!!

The next item on the blog agenda is Pretoria, where we went to right after our home stays! Keep your eyes open for more!