Rural Homestay

Blog entry: Rural Homestay

Three weeks ago, which feels simultaneously like yesterday and years ago, the CGE group and I departed for Outapi, a city in the northern region of Ombalantu. Here we would spend the next six days with families. The long drive up gave us all a chance to reflect on our time here, get ready for our last and most challenging homestay and brush up on the Oshivambo we had learned.

Upon our arrival I was nervous to meet my parents in the north. After the parents finished their meeting I met Secilia Hongo, my mother. She is a short but powerful woman. On our walk home I met Irjya, my sister. She is twenty-three and has a baby named Eddie. She carried my suitcase on her head while Meme Secilia carried a big box of food. Along our way they found a caterpillar and asked if I wanted to eat it! I was pretty overwhelmed by it, and didn’t but there’s more to come on that later!

We passed a gate that led to their farm. In the middle of their crops was a wall made of large branches which makes up their home. Kuku, grandma, Ulla Kamati was singing and clapping when I arrived. We sat down outside her house made of tin and I met everyone else! Ronny, or Nongola, is nine years old, Lusa, is three, Sam is one and a half and then little Eddie is only seven months old. They were all very excited to have me come, as was I, though maybe I was a bit more nervous too. I also drank a traditional drink which was very strong, milky looking but tasting similar to wine. Then I got settled in and Meme Secilia, all women in Ovambo culture are called Meme and men Tate, had to go back to her Coka shop and would return later. Irjya and Kuku cooked oshithima, which is traditional food and a lot like porridge, and a spinach dish that you dip the porridge into. We ate under the stars sitting on the sandy ground. We ate by starlight and moonlight as the house has no electricity, which is so relaxing and beautiful.

The house is a compilation of things. There are thirteen to fifteen huts, it’s difficult to count since the place winds around a bit, Kuku stays in a tin house and there is one cement house with two rooms. One is Meme Secilia’s and the other is where I stayed. The latrine is out in the field, by where the pigs live. There are two cute little pigs! Then there are many chickens, dogs and they also own goats. The place everyone gathers at is the kitchen area.

The next morning, Tuesday March 10, the other CGE students and I were whisked off to listen to speakers. We met the governor Sackey Kayone, who only met with us briefly. Then we visited Reverend Kashime who talked to us about issues of the church in Northern Namibia. He spoke about how the church helped the liberation struggle for independence. One contemporary issue the church has, which I was unaware of, is the increase in suicide in Namibia.

After that we went back to our families. The walk back to my home is thirty to forty-five minutes away from the road but it is a peaceful walk. There are many cows, goats and donkeys around. It’s very green in the north, as well. That night we ate rice and macaroni under the stars again. Meme Secilia brought fish home.

The next morning a bunch of school children walked with Ronny and I to the road, and the children continued to school. We visited Ongulumbashe where the liberation struggle had its first armed conflict. We listened to a member of SWAPO who had been a fighter when the first attack from South Africa began.

After that we visited Uukwaluudhi which is the King Shikongo Taapopi’s home. We went through the traditional home which had many levels where guests would meet headsman before the king. Finally we met the king who welcomed us. He told us about a community center that they were making that would help the elderly and orphans and vulnerable children as well as house community events such as weddings and parties. Then young men and women dressed in traditional clothes did two wonderful and high energy dances for us which I loved! They moved their feet to a very fast drum beat which impressed me so much.

That night with my family, before dinner Ronny, Lusa, Sam and I drew in the sand. I helped Ronny with his English alphabet. Then I taught them songs like “Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes”, “Old McDonald Had a Farm” and other similar songs. We also danced the chicken dance and ran around saying “ I am running!” or jumping or shaking. It was so much fun. Ronny already knew “Bingo”. The kids loved “Head, Shoulders,” and “Old McDonald” the most. Ronny’s favorite animal to sound out is the donkey!

The next morning, Thursday, March 11, Meme Secilia loaned me a traditional outfit to wear. I was so excited! It consisted of a bright pink, red and black loose shirt and skirt, with a bandana to match! It was bright and colorful I loved it! I wore that when we went to Etunda Irrigation which is a government run project that irrigates crops for farmers. They also subsidize loans given to the farmers for fertilizer, labor, machinery and more. They produce bananas, corn, sorghum, spinach and cabbage there. It was very interesting. Then we visited the Bao bao tree which is famous in that region. The tree was huge and inside was a small church. In the past the tree was used for all kinds of things including shelter from violence during colonialism and South African rule, a meeting place, and a small church. It was very beautiful. An icon of Namibia, Africa and our stay.

I met Meme Secilia’s other son Joel, who goes to school in Ongulumbashe. He is a very well-educated thirteen year old who is very nice. We talked about education and Ovambo culture. He taught me a lot. He has been promised that if he passes grade 12 his education at a college in Germany will be paid for. I hope he keeps studying and working hard. Joel has a lot of potential.

Then Meme Secilia and I went to the grocery store which was a bit awkward because so many people were very excited to see me. It was overwhelming how many people greeted me and took pictures of me on their phones. But I survived and made it back home. For dinner we had beans. There was more but I couldn’t eat it because I got sick with a stomach bug. I felt so bad to not be able to eat more because it made Meme Secilia and Irjya so happy when I ate a lot.

Friday morning we went to Oshikango, a border town with Angola. This really sparked my interest. It was so strange, I felt like we had left Namibia. At the border there are dozens of Angolans trying to get into Namibia in order to buy goods and sell them in Angola for a much higher price because Angola uses the U.S. dollar. There was so much hustle bustle which is so different from the calm little Outapi we know, or most places in Namibia for that matter. Oshikango faces many issues due to globalization such as crime, prostitution, cocaine trafficking from Brazil to Angola to Namibia, the growing population of Portuguese speakers to name a few.

Then we went to Ponhofi Secondary School which is a public school, to talk with the students there. Unfortunately my stomach bug did not allow me to experience much of Ponhofi other than the delicious lunch we had there, which I also couldn’t eat much of.

That night at home as I started to feel better I ate more again. I ate fried caterpillars! They are so delicious, they remind me of popcorn. We also had chicken.

Saturday morning with my family, we worked in the field making the nut plants strong by putting dirt up around them and on top of them. Then we got ready for the farewell party. They strapped Sam to my back and we were off. Lusa and I walked hand in hand in our matching traditional outfits to the party. There we got ready for the party by peeling carrots with forks, which is not so easy. Then the festivities got underway. There were many heart warming presentations. One of the fathers talked about our time here, then a student from the CGE group did. Also many of the students sang songs with their families or danced which was so great! Then we ate delicious food!

We made it home after a long day and had a final meal under the stars together. We were all very sad that it was my last night. In the morning we took a bunch of pictures which I promised to send to them. Irjya and Eddie walked me to the road. It was so sad to say goodbye and when we passed my mom’s Coka shop I could hardly bear leaving. Despite the sadness of saying goodbye I was excited and ready for what new things our trip to the north had to offer.