Upon our arrival to our home in Windhoek West we all collapsed with exhaustion, after making a mad dash to the washing machine to wash our deplorably dirty clothes. As hectic as our night was I was so excited to begin our adventure on the coast.
We headed out for Swakopmund early in the morning on Saturday March 20th. Although our bus stopped on the side of the road for no apparent reason, we arrived safely, though somewhat late. We rented a car from a nice couple who own a 4x4 car rental and dealership. Got groceries for the trip, a quick lunch and then we were off!
It took some getting used to but Anna proved to be a pro on our first day of driving, especially since it was her first time driving on the right side of the road! The drive was a long but exciting one. We got to see a preview of what we would see once inside the park of the beautiful sand dunes that stretched for miles on one side of us and the Southern Atlantic Ocean on the other side. We also saw a big shipwreck of a boat called the Zela, before getting to Mile 108. Finally we arrived at our campsite, Mile 108 outside of the park, just in time to see the amazing sunset over the ocean. Then we set up camp and ate a delicious stir fry meal cooked over an open fire. It is very cold and windy, so Anna and I huddled by the fire and had a moonlit chat. Then we went to bed and the sound of the ocean lulled me to sleep. I have never slept so soundly while camping!
We got up early enough to watch the sunrise over the sand dunes, which was beautiful. We set out early the next morning for the Skeleton Coast National Park. We arrived and spent a day in the park driving up from the entrance to Terrace Bay, which is the farthest point north that one can drive. After that you can only fly!
Words cannot even begin to describe the beauty, eeriness and vast expanse that is the Skeleton Coast. But I can make an attempt anyway!
Before we entered we had to buy a permit at the office which was full of animal bones! Then we took a picture in front of the gate which had a skull and cross bones on it, quite fitting for the rest of the park! Once we entered we passed through a river delta. You might assume that there was a lot of water, what with it being a river delta and all, but there was no water, only a lot of strange-looking low-lying green plants. We drove for more or less three hours, one way, and saw one shipwreck and many beautiful natural sights.
We drove past another river delta. They seemed to be the only places where life could be sustained. And we did see life as Springbok jumped by us!
We saw a lagoon that supported a flock of birds. They lived on it despite its close proximity to the ocean! It was green and beautiful. I also spotted some interesting animal tracks, possibly a sand lions?
We spotted a lone gemsbok, herds of springbok and birds. At one point we found the carcass of an animal and large tracks in the sand. We thought we might have been close to a brush up against a sand lion. Although we didn’t see any rhinos, lions and elephants live up there, as well.
We drove past the Salt Plains which were eerie and white. The wind blew the salt and sand giving it a silent beauty and awe.
There were small clumps of vegetation clinging to the sand for defense against the harsh wind. These little clumps were so odd looking they could have walked right out of Dr. Suess’ works!
There were large rocks and small sand dunes that reminded me of elephants. Lumpy elephants lying in the sand.
The large sand dunes to the east were so beautiful. And the ocean to the west took on calm blues and greens and angry whites and grays.
We stopped to visit an abandoned oil rig. This was by far the eeriest site on the coast. Remnants of civilization, daily chipped away by the strong sandy wind.
Amidst all this it must be noted that the weather grew progressively angrier and angrier. The wind became colder and more intense as we traveled further north.
I tried to imagine what it might be like to live out there, or even work. It must be a demanding, lonely, simple and isolated life. So few people are up there. We might have been the only group of people not fishing! Another strange thing we encountered outside of the park were small tables that stretched for at least a half mile, along the road. We finally stopped to investigate and found chunks of pink salt rocks, signs with prices for the small and medium sizes and jars in which to pay for the sand. We bought some and marveled at how someone could live out here and sell salt on the honor basis!
No words or photos can fully describe the experience that is the Skeleton Coast. The trip was surreal. Much like being underwater you feel like you’ve left planet Earth for a new strange and beautiful planet.
At Terrace Bay we encountered civilization again! After so long of the four of us in our little bubble this was indeed a little strange. It’s a small outcropping for fishermen. On our way back down we saw the shipwreck Wilson, just outside of the park and sang songs all the way home.
One of the things I’m proudest to say about my spring break 2010 was that I learned how to drive stick shift! It was not nearly as hard as I thought it would be and the park is a perfect place to learn since there is no one, or nothing to hit!
Upon our arrival to Mile 108 we found our tent on its side with rocks on it. It seems the wind had blown it over and other campers had brought it back and weighed it down with rocks. Since the earth was too hard we ended up tying the tent to 2 poles and the back of the truck! It was pretty funny looking!
The next morning March 22nd, we got up very early and drove to Dune 7. We had breakfast at the bottom of the dune and then climbed it. Climbing the dune in the morning was amazing! There was no sand blowing in the wind yet and it was cool. Anna and I sat upon the top of the ever changing Dune 7 and talked about life. How relaxing!
Then we drove into Swakopmund and grabbed lunch before saying goodbye to Nick, who had to go back to work the next day. Then we checked in at Desert Sky Lodge (if anyone is in Swakopmund I absolutely recommend this place, cheap and VERY nice!). Anna and I explored the city and then came back and we all ate a home cooked dinner.
Anna and I met up with three other girls from CGE spending their spring break in Swakopmund and we saw “An Education”, which I also recommend.
March 23rd we met a friend of Jenna’s who lives in Swakopmund and is from the U.S. Marcia, is such a great lady and we had the best time at Village Café! It is always interesting to hear an Americans perspective on living and working in Namibia. These breakfasts with Marcia became a tradition for the rest of our time in Swakopmund.
We shopped and bummed out on the beach, which was relaxing and fun. We had dinner at the Grapevine which was heavenly!
Then we jumped back on a bus to Windhoek and relaxed there, until spring break was over and it was time to get back to the grind.
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